Affectionately dubbed the Kaviar Kafeteria, this venerable, Tsarist-inspired institution in the 8th has been a favoured haunt of stylistas and scene queens since it first opened in the 1920s. The setting hasn’t changed much since those early days – the walls retain their original wood panelling, and curtains akin to what you might find in your grandmother’s living room still frame the windows overlooking place de la Madeleine – but with some of the finest caviar on the continent, and the chicest of clienteles, change at Caviar Kaspia is entirely unneeded.

Enter through the street-front store (where you can get your roe to-go) and make for the back stairs that have been trod by the likes of Princess Diana, Yves Saint Laurent, Beyoncé and Diane von Furstenberg. From there a waiter will whisk you to one of a cluster of small tables, provide a flute of champagne and allow you a moment to peruse the short menu. Guests can choose from seven types of caviar, smoked Norwegian salmon and foie gras, or king crab and crayfish salad accompanied by the signature caviar-crowned baked potato. After mains, settle in with some salmon blini and watch the well-to-do mingle with Paris’ fashion elite, then end on a sweet note with wild strawberries and an obligatory glass of cherry-flavoured vodka.

Ah, la bonne vie.